The topic of plus size models has long been a hot one in
fashion and retail circles. But while plus size female models are becoming
increasingly respected and marketed – indeed, UK Plus Size Fashion Week took
place over three days in London during September – what about the men?
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Where are all the plus-size male models? It’s a question the
Guardianasked recently. The article’s writer, Morwenna Ferrier, commented: ‘I asked
three major agencies in the UK, all of whom have plus-sized female models on
their books, and they all said they have no plans to sign plus-size male
models.’ However, in Germany there’s a different attitude, with three agencies
that specialise in plus-size male models.
In model terms, plus size for women starts at 14; in retail
clothing terms it’s more commonly 18. But for men, what is considered plus
size? Clearly, that opens up a wide field. Recent research from Mintel shows
that 20% of males in the UK – so almost a quarter of the population – have a
waist size of 38 inches or more. That’s a lot of bigger guys who are never
going to look like the muscular perfection that is David Beckham in his boxers.
But also, men’s clothing is available in far bigger sizes –
from 1XL all the way up to 8XL. These size ranges are typically available from
specialist suppliers dedicated to the larger man though generally many
mainstream retailers have a wide range. Dobell suit
trousers go up to 48 inch waist, and jackets to a 54 inch chest.
So – it’s certainly not the case that bigger or plus sizes
men aren’t being catered for. The clothes are out there. What’s the problem? At
this year’s New York men’s fashion week the subject was raised and the message
from modelling agencies was that there is no demand for plus-sized models. ‘As
an agency we don’t dictate demand, we respond to it,’ DNA model management’s
Gene Kogan told YahooStyle. ‘Demand has to originate from designers, brands or retailers. If
there was a strong demand for plus-size male models, believe we would be
scouting for them.’
There’s also a train of thought that the majority of male
clothing is not bought by men at all, but by their wives and partners - so the
marketing and advertising of men’s fashion is aimed at women.
These days, even the non-human models are far removed from
large physiques.
Thisreport suggested the standard male mannequin size has shrunk from a 42 inch
chest and a 33 inch waist – some might consider those ‘average’ dimensions – to
a 35 inch chest and a 27 waist over the last 40 years. Those measurements
actually make for a very slender, almost waif-like figure. The type of figure
seen almost exclusively on the catwalk and inside high-end lifestyle magazines.
While there is pressure on brands and retailers to feature
plus-size female models – and applause and appreciation when they do – it seems
the plus-size male model doesn’t actually exist. Not yet, at least. Until there
is a breakthrough, the DadBod will stay firmly in the background, outside the public glare.
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